Taking you through Dakar (Senegal) — Alessandra VENIER

Staying in Dakar for the summer, or over a limited period of time, seems to be the experience of most internationals around — or the so-called “expats” and their bubble. Foreigners often find each other attending similar social gatherings and events. For example, on Thursdays, “Hotel du Phare” is the ultimate “spot”; a terrace bar with a rooftop, music, (pricey) cocktails and some interesting pizza to munch on.

Beaches and islands

Plage des Mamelles

Dakar is a polluted metropolis on the sea. In many similar cases, actually being able to go to the beach is not a given; as it often requires exiting the chaotic city centre. However, Dakar can boast a little eco-friendly oasis called la Plage des Mamelles. A trendy decor made of recycled materials gives a chill vibe that reigns: local dishes are (sloooowly) prepared and served directly on the beach, coupled with local juices such as Bouye (from the Baobab tree), Bissap or Gingembre. This only contributes to the dreamy atmosphere created by a massif cliff, a sandy beach and glorious waves. Planning a day-trip to relax, tan and have lunch can (and should) easily evolve into a cozy “apéro” at Mamelles — safe and cheap, it’ll give you the impression of being on a little paradise island!

Ngor Island:

Similarly, visiting the small island of Ngor, a 10-minute boat ride from the “embarcadère”, is a must: walking around the charming island allows to see the “finistère de l’Afrique” — the westernmost point of the continent — with a majestic view of the Atlantic. Various restaurants on the waterfront give the impression of being far from Dakar, when in reality, it is only a 10-minute boat ride; allowing you to safely zone out of pollution from morning to late afternoon.

Iles de la Madeleine

Another escapade that will inevitably transport you to a dreamy atmosphere is the Iles de la Madeleine. A little pricey compared to other islands around Dakar (approximately 10$ per person for round-trip, plus a mandatory “guide” fee of 10$ per group), but definitely worth it as it is completely uninhabited. Make sure to pack some food and water before going on the boat; nothing is available on the island and it is probably one of the only spots where you won’t have to avoid vendors: there are only rocks and a calming lagoon. Touring the island is also worth it (especially as the mandatory “fee” includes it), mostly for the view on the coast and the city, rather than from the stories given by the guide. Only a 10-minute boat ride, it allows to completely zone out from the chaotic city and dive into an intimate paradise!

Markets:

Soumbedioum

For anyone who gets overwhelmed by markets, be it for the constant need to either refuse to buy something or having to bargain (and probably still getting ripped off), Soumbedioum is the right place. Although it is considered rather pricey and not-so-authentic, Soumedioum still offers a huge variety of traditional clothes, fabric, jewelry, statues, and other objects. I am particularly fond of the silver vendors; you can find original and good quality silver jewelry for a decent price (depending on your bargaining skills I suppose — but as a general rule, I always start by asking less than half…with a smile). So, if you’re looking for an (almost) artisanal marketplace that won’t drain all your energies, Soumbedioum is your best bet (and is right next to where boats for the Madeleine Islands leave from)

Marché Sandaga

Now this one is probably the exact opposite of Soumbedioum: frenetic merchants selling pretty much anything — from art pieces to kitchen mats, used clothes, shoes, and electronics — make sure to go well-rested and avoiding the hottest hours of the day. I think it’s worth giving it a try if experiencing what a “real” market is like; prices are much lower than Soumbedioum, but the atmosphere also much more hectic. Although I actually enjoy interacting with sellers and could spend hours looking for a specific piece of fabric or a pouch, I would still recommend going with someone to Sandaga, mostly because of the pick- pocketers around. It is located in the “Plateau” neighborhood — where you can find nice restaurants and cafes.

Food spots

Now, Senegalese food in Dakar is pretty much everywhere; be it in fancy places or street corners (usually the latter being much tastier in my view). But restaurants with food from neighboring countries, such as “Seoul 2” for Ivorian, or “Chez Loutcha” for massive (and very affordable) portions of specialties from Cabo Verde, are not known to all. “Chez Loutcha” is one of my personal favorites, with its friendly staff and cozy atmosphere, make sure to go there on an empty stomach because their (super long) menu can satisfy any type of craving.

Sokhamon

With its peaceful terrace and impressive view on the ocean, this Lebanese-owned hotel has a restaurant with a variety of dishes and Lebanese twists (their hummus is definitely worth a try). If you find yourself in the Plateau neighborhood, make sure to check it out at sunset!

Experiences in surrounding cities

Mbour

During my first month in Senegal, I had the chance to attend a traditional wedding in Mbour, a city in the Thiès Region an hour and a half away from Dakar. The celebration was filled with joy, music, tam tams, dancing and food for over 200 guests. A Senegalese dish called “thiebou yapp” (rice with meat and spices) was served in large plates to be shared between groups of 5 to 6 people. I was told that the large amount of food was cooked by local Griot women, to my surprise and curiosity. In most of West Africa, the Griots are storytellers and were historically considered as the repositories of oral traditions, dedicated to preserving the memory of society. They are “born” Griots, and thus used to constitute a specific social caste — for this reason, the groom’s sister telling us that the dish had been cooked by a group of local Griot women intrigued and fascinated me.

Tam-tam players during the 3rd day of a Wedding celebration in Mbour, Senegal

Lompoul Desert

Now this is probably the most relaxing experience I’ve had so far — about 2 hours from Dakar by car the small desert of Lompoul gives the impression to be in the middle of surrealist dunes, in fully-equipped tents which can host up to 3 people. The Ecolodge Hotel offers full meals, hammocks, quads and dromedary tours. The atmosphere is friendly and intimate and the staff there is caring. Definitely worth the price, and the ride. One night is enough, so I’d suggest planning it as a weekend excursion.