Hello!
I am Amel, 22 years old French Master student in International Public Management, focused on Global Risks and the East Asian region. I was born and raised in Paris but had the chance to travel by myself a lot in Europe, the United-States and Morocco. I have a strong interest in Asian countries especially for their language, landscapes, FOOD, and cosmetics. I have started learning Chinese 8 years ago and Japanese by myself last year, when I had the opportunity to move to Japan for 6 months. This, was my first solo travel experience. The following travel diary will tell you more about it and maybe inspire you to do the same if you are still hesitating. Besides my studies, I enjoy running, cooking, rap music and dogs.
- Before you leave for Tokyo
Thinking about going to Tokyo or just fascinated by the city that never sleeps?This article is a review of what I would have liked to know before moving to Japan. I went to Tokyo two times in 2017 and 2018, lived there for 6 months as a graduate student and later for Japanese intensive programs at Coto Academy Language School in Iidabashi.
Before you read this, be sure that I highly advise anyone who has an opportunity to go to Japan just.. to do it. Do not hesitate twice, come to Japan with all your expectations, fears, wishes and let yourself discover how it is really like living there. Japanese pop culture spreads plenty of ideas about the Japanese way of life. As a solo traveler you have in your hands the keys to build your own vision of Japan, explore it and question what you see, taste and learn. There is no more satisfying experience than going to a city that brings both your interest and excitement.
東京へようこそ (Tokyo welcomes you)
Flight
The city of Tokyo has two international airports: Haneda and Narita. There are significant differences between the two. Narita airport is located in the city of Narita, around 1 hour far from the center whereas Haneda airport is close from Tokyo’s center.
I have always managed to land at Haneda airport with direct flights from Paris. Tickets are more costly than if you arrived at Narita airport, but it is more convenient after a long flight.
The first time I went to Tokyo, I took a taxi from Haneda airport to my house. I was carrying two 23 kg luggages, a huge backpack, 12 hours of weak sleep in a night flight, and had no idea how the transport system worked there. I hardly take taxis from airports, it remains a pricey alternative. It was actually the first time I used my scholarship to pay for a taxi!
The best option is to take the Monorail, an automatic train that reaches metro stations such as Hamamatsucho station (浜松町駅) on Yamanote line (the green circle line, my favourite one). In that case, you must buy a ticket at the airport or get a Suica/Pasmo card that will immediately become your best friend, see why later in the article.
Narita airport is at a greater distance, plane tickets are then cheaper, and more companies park there. I went to Narita airport for my journeys inside Asia from Tokyo, but had to consider some additional fees. Indeed, from Tokyo you must take a bullet train or the metro to reach Narita airport. You can choose the Narita Express line or the Skyliner from Nippori station (日暮里駅).
Housing
The biggest part of your budget will go to housing. I only used Airbnb in Japan. One at Komagome (駒込) station and one near Kanda (神田) station and Otemachi (大手町) station. This was the most convenient and affordable option, but you can also book a hotel, hostel, ryokan or capsule-hotel. Japan offers a large panel of housing options, some of them are unique and more or less affordable.
Note that couchsurfing is not well-spread in Japan. Even if people tend to be extremely welcoming and nice, it is not common to welcome a foreigner for a night, unless you are invited few days before.
Transport
The other most important part of your budget will go to transports.
As a train enthusiast (everyone has its own passion), Japan is a paradise on earth. Famous for its bullet train Shinkansen (新幹線), Japan offers a large variety of train and bus routes. Everything is neat, clean, on time, safe and reliable. You might plan to walk to avoid paying the fares, but stations in Tokyo are pretty spaced compared to other cities.
During the winter season, a heater is placed under each seat, and the A/C works excellently when the temperatures are high.
Be careful, the metro and the Japan Railway (JR) trains are not controlled by the same company. You then must consider use your Pasmo/Suica/Ticket several times for one travel during your transfers. And, if you accidently take the wrong exit and enter a new zone, you might not be able to come back in the station, unless you pay a “sanction fee” of around 1$.
Hygiene
Thinking of travelling solo involves some issues related to hygiene that must be considered prior to moving to avoid bad surprises. In Japan you will catch sight of drugstores at any corner. There you can find basics such as shampoo, toothpaste, laundry products, and medicine. Most of the brands are Japanese but you also identify “standard brands” such as Dove, L’Oréal that are more expensive.
Concerning period pads especially, you can find them in drugstores but the choice tends to be narrowed. And, do not be surprised when the cashier puts your period pads pack in a separate black opaque bag, no one has to know you bought “this”.
Note: most packages are only written in Japanese, but you can still refer to colors, scents and some English indications to go for one.
How to dress
This section is not about fashion per se or the last Japanese trends. Still, when you travel solo it is always safe to consider how locals dress. In Japan, there is no particular prohibition in terms of clothing, and you do not need to cover your legs or body parts especially. However, you might be disappointed as I have been when going shopping in Japan. Asian sizes are smaller and as foreigners you might not find your size in Japanese stores. I had to bring all my shoes from France (suitable for 3 seasons) because most shops do not go beyond shoes size 38 (US 7.5). In Japan, most sizes are presented with letters from XS to XL, still a L in Japan might work for a S or M in Europe.
Meals
With trains, food might be my second favourite thing in Japan.
It Tokyo, meals are (comparatively) cheap considering (Tokyo’s living cost), good quality and tasty. Restaurants are open very late in the evening and sometimes 24/7. You can buy fresh bento in convenience stores at a very low prices and find a treat at any time of the day for some yens (the local currency). If you are not really into Japanese cuisine, you can always find a dish that suits your taste.
My top 10 cheap food recommendations in Tokyo are :
Gyudon at Yoshinoya for less than 5$
Sushis from 1$ to 8$ at Uobei or Gansozushi
Karaage for less than 4$ in any convenience store
Yakitori, cabbage, beer and cocktails for less than 10$ at Tori Kizoku
Chicken Tonkatsu for 8$ at Family Mart
Dorayaki for 2$ at Lawson
Cold Soba bowl in traditional restaurants for less than 7$
Edamame bag for less than 3$ at Seven Eleven
All kind of Onigiri from 1$ to 3$ in any convenience store
Soda, hot/cold tea and coffee, energy drinks from 1$ to 3$ in automatic distributors
Wifi
For my first trip in Japan, I did not buy a SIM card or pay for any Internet connection because I had in mind that there was Wifi spots everywhere in Tokyo. You can access the internet in cafes, some convenience stores, Mcdonalds and Starbucks, and in some train stations. However, I highly recommend you to pay for a Pocket Wifi. It is a device you must order before coming to Japan. It enables you to access the internet 24/7 using your phone and your computer. It is a little pricey but worth it, to use maps for example.
Onsen
Japan is famous for its hot springs called Onsen (温泉). It consists in increasingly hot bathes and facilities where you can relax, wash yourself, have a break. I definitely recommend you trying the experience. For a first time, you can give a chance to the most famous one in Odaiba, but you will find cheaper ones everywhere in Tokyo. Some establishment are mixed, boys and girls go there, but most are not. If you have the occasion to go to the city of Sapporo in Hokkaido, appraise Sapporo Airport’s outdoor Onsen. Also, you will probably not be able to access Onsen if you have tattoos on your body.
To me, Tokyo is an ideal destination to start your journey as a solo traveler. In a few words: safe, fascinating, on the move, good food, welcoming people, unique.
Japan also has some negative sights like any other city that you will experience once there, but most travelers are nostalgic when they are back from the Land of the Rising Sun.
最後まで読んでいただき、ありがとうございました。
Amel’s Japan story continues to next week.
